Note that the layout below is the advanced layout. This board uses a different connection to the MOSFET drain to enhance stability.

The following layouts are downloaded and printed to the following sizes:
Pixels: 1150 width by 636 height at 200 pixels per inch or
Inches: 5.75" width by 3.18" height.

The default for most picture programs will be 72 pixels per inch, be sure to change to 200 pixels per inch if you have to use pixels.

You can right click the following layouts and "Save Image As" or "Copy Image" to download (put in Clipboard) and open in Paint Shop Pro, LView Pro, Jasc Paint Shop Pro, IrfanView (Free). IrfanView has a 32 bit and 64 bit version for everything from Win 98, XP, up to Win 10.

With IrfanView, do Edit/Paste, go to Image, Resize/Resample and Click on "Set new size", and enter the size in inches.

The layouts can be properly sized with any of the above programs. The bottom one (mirrored) is the one used to produce the Manhattan style layout.

With the print of the mirrored layout, cut around the mirrored layout with about an inch margin.

Cut approximately 32.5" of 1/8" strips from the PCB board you are using. This is used for all the traces of the transmitter. The original layout of the transmitter was modified to use 1/8" wide traces to simplify the Manhattan build of the transmitter.

There are many kinds of tin snips but the one below is the best to use as it allows longer cuts through the PCB material without too much bending of the strips. Others that have an angle between the cutters and the handle require too much of a bend of the strips to be useful.

The strips will curl and twist when cutting with tin snips. Cut the strips with small cuts at a time working your way through the length of the PCB. After a piece is cut, go through the strips 3 to 4 times bending it a little at a time to keep them from breaking. When doing the last run to get it back straight, use two pliers, one to hold the strip and the other to bend it .

If you break them and don't get a couple of long pieces for the long runs, no problem, you can place them next to each other on the layout and then solder them together after Super Gluing them to the transmitter board.

Second, measure the large and small blocks of the PCB pieces and stick them to the mirrored layout.

A inexpensive plastic micrometer makes it easy to transfer the sizes of the blocks to the PCB for cutting.

Use BlueStick (available at my local hardware store) or any similar type of sticky material - rubber glue or even silicon glue if nothing else is available. You want something that is easy to remove yet holds the PCB pieces to the paper.

On thicker PCB boards (1/16") the MOSFET leads will have to be bent up slightly and checked to make sure they do not touch the ground around their hole.

The picture below shows the PCB pieces using a single sided 1/16" PCB board with all the 1/8" wide trace lengths installed.

With single sided PCB board, the copper side is glued to the paper.

The picture below is the completed layout with the odd sized rectangles added. Notice that the size of the cut PCB traces cover the black outlines of the layout traces. The size of the cut traces should include covering the black outlines of the traces on the board.

Cut at the top and bottom borders and leave about an inch out from the borders on each side. The extra on the sides is used to hold the layout when laying down on top of the transmitter PCB.

Below is the 1/16" single sided PCB and the measurements made to cut the main board.

The regular layout is cut from the paper at the borders and laid down on the PCB and cut.

When cutting a double sided PCB, marks are made with either a utility knife (a deep cut will guide the thin snips during the cut) or a black pen marker.

Shown below is how the MOSFET holes are cut out of the paper layout and then the edges of the holes are marked on the PCB. A utility knife is used and deep cuts are made through the copper layer and bottom side of the PCB.

Copper side

Bottom side

With a Jig Saw and a narrow blade, or if the center hole was drilled with a 3/8" drill, a regular blade, cut from the center to each corner hole. If you don't have a Jig Saw, use a small wire cutter and cut from center hole to the corner holes.

Use a needle nosed plier or wire cutter to break off the side pieces. If they don't break easily, cut into the side lines deeper until they do. Use the utility knife or a file to clean up the sides.

Check the fit of the MOSFETs after finishing work on the hole.

Tools used to pry out the center piece and trim up the edges. The large file was too big to use but a slightly smaller one would work great. Check the fit of the MOSFETs after finishing work on the hole.

Use Super Glue to glue the traces/pads to the PCB. Super Glue Gel Control is the preferred glue. The Super Glue Brush On was used but it didn't lay enough glue on the traces/pads to make them stick well to the PCB. The Gel leaves a good drop on the traces/pads and sticks very well to the PCB.

Be sure to rough up the PCB with sandpaper (220 grit or so) and wash the board with soap and water. The one below has not been sandpapered or washed! Don't forget.

A piece of 1/4" aluminum angle is used as a guide piece to help orient the mirror traces/pads onto the transmitter PCB. The holes are also aligned as you place the paper. Aliging against the aluminum angle and the holes will get it set down properly onto the transmitter PCB

The transmitter PCB is turned over and the aluminum angle is taped to the bottom of the transmitter board. Note: the picture below shows the bottom of the PCB.

First, test the layout by turning it over to make sure all the traces/pads hold on to the layout. If any fall off, press down on them or add a little more Bluestick to make sure they hold. The long traces will be the most likely to fall off so make sure they have enough Bluestick.

Take the layout and lay it down on the transmitter board until you get the feel of it so you get it right the first time with the glue. There will be no second chance!

Super Glue Gel is put on the traces and pads. Start at one side and work your way over the board. Just drops are needed instead of a steady line and also easier to do.

Flip the layout over (end to end) so the hole in the layout is above the hole in the board.

The layout is pressed against the transmitter board to get the Super Glue firmly on the board. Let it dry for at least four hours or even overnight to make sure the glue has adhered.

After the glue is dried, pull the mirrored layout off the board. You should have the Bluestick on the traces/pads and the Manhattan pieces still stuck on the transmitter board. If any do come up, just reglue them to the board.

Using your finger, roll the Bluestick off the traces/pads until you have it all removed.

A copy of the layout is compared to the transmitter board to double check for any missing traces or pads.

Fire up the soldering gun and solder the traces where they are broken, mainly at the corners, and solder what pads need to be soldered to traces. The following picture can be a guide to help you solder all the required places. On ones that are difficult to bridge, use a short piece of bare wire across the gap.

It is a good idea to use a short piece of wire across all the bridges to make sure they stay connected when soldering on the parts, or, double check the bridges after soldering on the parts. You will quickly find the ones that unsoldered when testing the completed transmitter.

You are now ready to install the parts!

Go to WA2EBY Manhattan Style Build.